The Beautiful Hilltop Haven of Erice Sicily: A Magical Village Steeped in History and Culture

Erice Sicily stands atop a mountain right next to the port town of Trapani. From there, it's also the easiest to get up. And so we did, as part of our Western Sicily itinerary.

Erice is known for its atmospheric alleys and beautiful views in almost every direction. The fog that often rises in the evenings adds to the place's mystique.

Erice was once inhabited. There may still be residents there today. However, most have moved to more practical places, such as Trapani. Living on top of the mountain has its challenges.

Today, tourists have replaced the residents. We visited Erice in early autumn, so there were fewer people. The weather was worse, too. The Trapani region is prone to rapid changes, and there are more rainy days here than in the rest of Sicily. We, too, have noticed this every time we have been there.

A view to the sea.

Historical Significance of Erice

Erice's history stretches back thousands of years. The first to inhabit it were the Elymians. We know little about them except that they arrived in Sicily around 1,200 BC. After them came the Carthaginians, the Romans, and the Normans—the whole bunch.

In Erice, you'll find a Norman castle and a Roman temple to Venus, the goddess of love. The temple was particularly popular with sailors. The reason was the dual role of the priestesses. For a fee, they offered divine pleasures of love - in other words, they acted also as prostitutes.

The remains of the temple are still there. They are worth a visit for the scenery alone. And if you stay in town overnight, the place should be downright magical when the fog lifts.

When we visited, the Norman castle was closed for renovation, and you couldn't walk to the remains of the Temple of Venus (located behind the castle.)

The temple of Venus is connected to the Norman Castle, shown here.

The other main attraction, the Chiesa Madre, was on the other side of town. It was built as a Christian counterpoint to the pagan place of worship on the other side of town.

The church is in the city's central square. Its exterior dates back to the 13th century, while its interior, which collapsed in the 19th century, is a later construction.

Cultural Attractions in Erice Sicily

Erice experience includes wandering its medieval alleys. The place is small, so there is no danger of getting lost. You can cover the whole area in a couple of hours.

Erice also has a shopping street where you can find local handicrafts. The zigzag pattern on them is traditional in the town.

Interestingly, one of the churches in the town had been converted into some house of science. I didn't understand much of the texts, so I missed the significance of much of it. I have to say, though, that although I'm not religious, churches do offer more art than this science museum. Or whatever it was.

There are also a couple of piazzas where you can stop for coffee or refreshments. Food is also available.

Traditionally Decorated Horse in Erice Sicily

Exploring the Natural Beauty of Erice

In addition to the sympathetic medieval alleys, Erice Sicily offers a wealth of natural beauty. The hiking trails leading into town are a great way to get to know the surrounding nature better.

I found the trailhead but didn't set out to walk it. At least at the town end, the trail was in very good condition. It runs along the side of a mountain, so it should offer good views of the surrounding area.

Of course, you can also admire the views from the town itself. For vegetation, see the Giardini del Balio. As well as peace and beautiful views, it offers shade from the sun.

Indulge in the Delights of Sicilian Cuisine in Erice

For a taste of the local cuisine, Osteria La Bettolaccia is a must-visit. This popular eatery is known for its delicious Sicilian dishes, so be sure to book a table in advance to avoid disappointment.

If you don't have a reservation for the first place and it's full, you can take advantage of the restaurants in the piazzas.

The most famous delicatessen is Pasticceria Maria Grammatico. It specializes in almond delicacies and is renowned all over Italy.

The owner, Maria, spent her youth as a nun. In the monastery she learned the nuns' baking tricks. (Nuns are the best bakers of delicacies in Sicily.) After leaving the convent, Maria took the recipes and set up this café.

Best Time to Visit Erice

The best time to visit Erice Sicily is during the spring and autumn when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summers in Sicily can be hot, reaching over 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit).

The winter months in Erice are relatively mild, with temperatures rarely dropping below freezing. It is a great time to visit if you don't mind a little rain and prefer fewer crowds. During the Christmas season, the village takes on a magical atmosphere with festive decorations and a Christmas market.

If you hike to Erice, you will arrive next to Torretta Pepoli. Or, you can start walking down from there.

Getting to Erice

Erice is easily accessible from Trapani, located on a peninsula below Mount Erice. Hikers can follow the hiking trail, while others can use the funicular and car road. Local buses run frequently to Erice, although the journey takes considerably longer than by funicular.

The weather in the Trapani area is variable due to the air moving in from the north. Rain and winds can appear unexpectedly, especially outside the summer months. If you plan to travel by funicular, check whether it is operational in advance. High winds can cause breaks in its operation.

There are good bus connections to Trapani both from Palermo and Marsala.

Accommodation Options in Erice

Those who want to enjoy Erice's magical atmosphere without the tourist crowds should stay in town overnight. In the evenings, the city quiets down, and the mist rising from the sea makes the place even more mystical.

Erice offers a variety of accommodation options for every budget and preference.