Must things to do in Palermo, sicily

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is a city rich in history, culture, and delicious cuisine.

In case you're planning a trip to this beautiful city, I give you some of my favorite things to do in Palermo.

From ancient landmarks to mouth-watering street food, there's something for everyone in Palermo.

(For frequently asked questions about Palermo, see this page.)

The Best Time To Go Is Now

"Everyone who comes to Palermo is a Palermitan." These words came from the Mayor of this biggest city in Sicily.

The Arabs made Palermo the capital over a thousand years ago. After they came the Normans, the Byzantines, the Spanish, and the French. They all left their traces in the city's cuisine, customs, markets, and architecture.

Today, a couple of million tourists visit Palermo every year. Gone are the days of trying to get out of the city as fast as possible. Where once people would spend a night or two in Palermo and then hurry away, they now spend more time in there. Much more.

And the reasons are clear. Palermo has managed to wriggle out of the mafia's grip. Young people are looking to the future with confidence. This reflects throughout the cityscape.

One example of the new Palermo is the district of Kalsa. Young people have filled it. Nice shops, bars and multicultural eateries have sprung up.

Elsewhere in the old city centre traffic jams and crime have given way to a new urban culture. No more Mafia wars. Yes to restaurants, lively nightlife and cosy promenades.

Now is the perfect time to go to Palermo. The number of tourists is growing every year, and with it, the city also changes all the time.

Palermo's location also makes it an ideal place for day trips to the surrounding area. Beach resorts, such as Cefalù and Mondello, are within easy reach. As is the spectacular cathedral of Monreale.

Palermo is also well connected to the west towards Trapani. (An hour and a half with a bus.) And it only takes a few hours to drive through the island to the eastern shore. And even less to the south to the temples of Agrigento.

Palermo seen from the roof of Palermo Cathedral

View from the roof of Palermo Cathedral.

Of course, there are lots of things to do in Palermo itself - even for a longer stay. But if you are in a hurry you can see the main sights in two or three days.

Here I have listed the main attractions. But if time is not an issue and you enjoy city life, Palermo is well worth staying for a longer period.

The city's urban heartbeat, nightlife, street food, and great shops make it a fun place to stay.

How To Get To Palermo - And Beyond?

Usually, people arrive in Palermo by plane. This is the easiest and quickest way if you are arriving from abroad or elsewhere in Italy. The airport is not very large, but it is efficient.

Palermo airport's name comes from anti-mafia judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borselino. Along the route to the city, is a monument for these two judges. That is the spot where a gigantic bomb killed Falcone, his wife, and his entourage.

The airport is 35 km from the center of Palermo. There is a good and cheap bus service from the airport to the city center. The journey takes about an hour.

Outside Palermo airport.

One option is also to hire a car from one of the well-known companies that operate inside the airport. Many car rental companies also allow you to return the car to another branch in another city.

Or, if you don't want to drive yourself, you can hire a car and driver from Palermo. You can ask for recommendations on drivers on Sicily forums in Facebook or elsewhere. That way you avoid the risk of getting ripped off and/or other inconveniences.

If instead of an airplane, you arrive in Palermo by train or bus, you will come straight to the city center, at the main railway station. From there, it's an easy trip to the historic center and to the main sights.

So, here are my 7 main things to do in Palermo.

1. Marvel at "The Fountain of Shame" at Piazza Pretoria

This one is probably the easiest thing to do in Palermo. Everyone ends up there sooner or later. Probably sooner. It's in such a central location.

Maybe that's why Piazza Pretoria is probably the most famous attraction in Palermo. It is also very un-Sicilian.

The fountain and its statues were once located in a noble mansion. Stone by stone, it was then moved here to the center of Palermo.

The fountain is in the Renaissance style, which is a style not at all common in Sicily.

In fact, there was no Renaissance in Sicily. The island was then under Spanish rule. And those guys were more interested in the Inquisition than new artistic or philosophical trends.

Piazza Fontana seen from the roof of the Church of Santa Caterina. You can get there from Piazza Bellini.

There were also some troubles with the nuns living in the house opposite the fountain. They considered the statues of the fountain to be downright obscene. And so when some "indecent" parts of the statues were chopped off, people turned their suspecting heads to the nuns.

Later, a fence was erected around the statues to prevent unwanted 'repair work' in the future.

All in all, definitely a place worth seeing.

2. Pay a Visit to Palermo Cathedral a.k.a. St. Rosalie's Church

No visit to Palermo is perfect without a visit to the city's cathedral. It is a combination of Arabic, Byzantine, and Norman styles. The wealth of detail is enormous.

Palermo Cathedral also houses the remains of the city's patron saint, Santa Rosalia. Rosalia was a Norman noblewoman who refused marriage. Instead, she dedicated her life to Christ.

Rosalia lived in seclusion on Monte Pellegrino, where she died in 1166. She became the patron saint of the town in 1624. That was when the plague struck the city.

St. Rosalia's grave in Palermo Cathedral

The remains of Santa Rosalia lay here, in Palermo Cathedral.

The story goes that Rosalia appeared in a dream to a local hunter. That way, she showed him the location of her remains. They were in a cave where she had died.

The hunter went to the cave and found the remains there. After that, people carried the bones from the mountains to the city and laid them to rest in Palermo Cathedral.

Shortly afterward, the plague left the city. So Rosalia became its patron saint.

You can visit the site where the bones were found. It takes a little hiking up the hill - after a bus ride - so reserve enough time for it.

Construction of Palermo Cathedral began in 1168 by a local cardinal. The idea was to bring the power of the Roman Catholic Church to this multicultural island. The cardinal also hoped to strengthen his power in relation to the Norman king of Sicily, William II.

Although Palermo Cathedral is a fine sight William II had the last word on the matter. He built his own - even more magnificent - cathedral in Monreale.

So what to do in Palermo after you've seen the cathedral? Just continue the pedestrian street in from of it. That way, you soon get to one of Palermo's finest attractions: the Palatine Chapel.

3. Check Out the Gold Mosaics in the Palatine Chapel (Capella Palatina)

A visit to this chapel near the Norman palace is one of the top things to do in Palermo. John Norwich called it "the most complete expression of the Sicilian-Norman political miracle."

It combines Latin, Byzantine, and Islamic elements in one harmonious whole. And this was at the same time when Muslims and Christians were slaughtering each other elsewhere in Europe.

Only here, in Sicily, did all three great civilizations work together in harmony. Like Norwich says: "Norman Sicily remains a lesson to us all."

Inside the Palatine Chapel.

Construction of Palatine Chapel began in 1130. It was in honor of the coronation of the first king of Sicily, Roger II, and took thirteen years.

Its main attraction is its mosaics. Some say they even surpass the churches of Constantinople in splendor.

The mosaics were of Roman origin, but here they are made in the tradition of Byzantine art.

The abstract designs on the lower walls of the chapel are instead of Islamic origin.

Location of the place is close to the city centre, inside the Norman Palace. It takes fifteen minutes to walk here from Quattro Canti.

The place is popular among tourists, so you can expect some traffic.

The easiest way to avoid crowds is to visit the Palatine Chapel either early in the morning or later in the afternoon.

The Norman Palace, next to the Palatine Chapel, is the oldest royal palace in Europe. If time is not a problem, you should visit that too.

4. Take a Bus (or a Taxi) to Monreale Cathedral

From the Norman Palace - where the Palatine Chapel is located - you can take a bus straight to Monreale. The buses leave right behind the palace every half hour. The fare is a couple of euros.

Or you can take a taxi. With a bigger group, it's no more expensive than a bus. But way more comfortable.

This is one of the things to do in Palermo that you shouldn't skip. The place is decorated in the same manner as The Palatine Chapel. The difference lies in size. This is way bigger.

So if the chapel seems too crowded, you can head here instead. Maybe go to the chapel after you come back. It's not so crowded in the evenings.

Monreale Cathedral.

The town of Monreale sits on a hillside, half an hour's drive from Palermo. It is home to one of the most important sights in the whole of Sicily: the Monreale Cathedral.

King William II built this cathedral to strengthen his power. It was a counter-reaction to the Cardinal who built Palermo Cathedral. And there's no question to it: the Cardinal came second.

This cathedral also represents a harmonious collaboration between different cultures. Greeks, Arabs, and Normans have all taken part in its construction.

The mosaics inside the church represent the Byzantine side.

The population of Monreale is around 30,000. And even if there are no other attractions, you can spend some time in the town, eating or going to a café.

You must cover your knees and shoulders when entering the cathedral. You can buy disposable covers for this at the cathedral door.

Sunday is not a good day to go to the Monreale. Then the cathedral is open only for a limited time.

On other days Monreale makes an excellent day trip destination.

5. Capuchin Crypt (Catacombe dei Cappuccini)

From the Norman Palace, you can also head to the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks. A bus runs from behind the palace every twenty minutes. The journey takes about ten minutes. You can also walk there.

The most famous legacy of the Capuchin monks is cappuccino - named after the color of their robes.

The Capuchins belonged to the Franciscan order. Their motto was 'memento mori'. "Remember that you are dying". Something they felt obliged to remind their fellow man of.

Because of this, they also saved and displayed the bones of their monastic brothers.

The Palermo Capuchin monks took the custom a step further. For one reason or another, they began to embalm their monk brothers.

The method was effective, and soon it attracted interest outside the monastery. The local nobles began to request the same treatment for their dying relatives.

The results of this 'eternal life' offered by the monks are now seen in Capuchin Crypt. There the embalmed bodies of more than 8,000 deceased are on display.

This place is not recommended for those suffering from fear of death. Although it may have some therapeutic effects.

For me, it wasn't that much the dead mummies themselves, but the sheer amount of them that made the biggest impact.

In the crypt, the bodies of different groups of people are in different rooms. The first to arrive are the bodies of the Capuchin brothers. These serve as the first 'guinea pigs' of the embalming process.

Women and men have their alcoves, as do children. Some of the children are very young. There is also a room for virgins.

At some point, the authorities banned the use of the embalming method. With one exception...

This is the most famous body in the whole crypt. It belongs to 2-year-old Rosalia Lombardo, also known as Sleeping Beauty. The reason is that her dead body shows no signs of aging.

Rosalia died of pneumonia in the 1920s when embalming was already banned. At the request of the parents, the law made an exception for Rosalia.

Rosalia's dead body looks as if it could wake up at any moment. Locals consider this a miracle. Scientists say it's likely due to the body's airtight display case.

Photography is not allowed in the crypt out of respect for the deceased. You can still buy cards with pictures in the shop.

If you are looking for things to do in Palermo that are out of the ordinary, head to the Capuchin Crypt.

6. Visit Vucciria, Ballaro and Capo Markets

Capo Market in Palermo.

After thousand-year-old buildings and embalmed corpses, you might well be looking for more lively things to do in Palermo.

So let's return to living. One way to do this is to visit one or more of Palermo's markets.

This is best done in the early hours of the morning when trade is at its busiest.

Sicily's markets date back to the Arabic era - more than a thousand years ago. The people are loud and boisterous, shouting and singing.

Palermo's markets are well stocked: fresh vegetables and fruits, meat, herbs, spices, clothes, and household goods. And, of course, a wide variety of delicious street food.

There are three markets in Palermo: Ballarò, Vucciria, and Capo.

Ballarò Market is the most lively and authentic. It has been in the same place for over a thousand years. And the tradition of singing vendors in the area is just as old.

Vucciria Market is not as big as Ballarò, but well worth a visit. There you find fish, meat, household utensils, cheese, butchers, and a knife sharpener.

Knife sharpener in Vucciria Market, Palermo, Sicily

A knife sharpener in Vucciria.

Vucciria is also home to the local old-school bar, Taverna Azzurra. Head here for a drink in the company of the locals.

Of the three markets, Capo Market is the least exotic. But it's still a great place to do some shopping, eat, and drink.

We bought some Sicilian mixed spices there. They made the food absolutely delicious and cost next to nothing. Had I known how good they were, I would have bought more to take home with me.

7. Experience the Nightlife in Palermo

In Sicily afternoon is the time to relax. Many shops and restaurants are closed. But when the evening comes, the whole scene comes alive.

First, people go for an evening walk. Then they go somewhere to eat. And after that, it's time to drink - and maybe eat some more.

Palermo has a variety of bars that spill out onto the streets. Music, drinks and lots of people. And the delicious food from street grills.

Best of all, Palermo's nightlife goes on all year - and week - round.

The best place to look for nightlife is in the old town. Try Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via dei Chiavetteri, for example.

Especially later at night, the Vucciria area is most lively. Mingle with the colorful crowd and buy cheap drinks - and food.

For more sophisticated - and expensive - fun, the Politeama area is the place to be. The clientele is more upper-middle class. There are lots of good foods and drinks.

Another bit more sophisticated spot is the harbor area (La Cala). Here you can sip a drink in a maritime atmosphere and enjoy seafood.

All places offer drinks as well as large and small meals. In the old town, there are delicious and cheap snacks to have with your beer. In Politeama prices are higher but so is the standard of the places.

In the better areas, you will sit at terrace tables. In the old town, people stand or sit in the streets.

One of the main things to do in Palermo is to visit its nightlife. It's also hard to miss. When restaurants open in the evening, it has already started.

Vucciria area in the evening.

Things to Do in Palermo: The Conclusion

There is plenty of things to do in Palermo. So much that you have to pick and choose. I have covered the main attractions here. You can get around them in a couple of days.

More than a thousand years of history are visible everywhere. The Norman religious buildings, in particular, will make your head spin.

You can also find history by just looking around. It shows in the city's people, customs, food, pastries, markets, and architecture.

Of all the cities in Sicily, Palermo is one of my favorites. There is plenty to see, experience, and do, even for a longer time.

More...

Sicilian Food

The History of Sicilian Mafia

Monreale Cathedral

Death of Giovanni Falcone

Sicily (home page)

The Main Cities in Sicily

(Last edited: November 2, 2023.)

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