Taormina is a small village on the eastern coast of Sicily. You can walk through it in ten minutes.
The sights you can see in a couple of days. Or you can take the town as a base from which to explore neighboring areas.
Places like Etna, Catania, Syracuse, or the Aeolian Islands.
Or you can just lay on the beach and enjoy the nightlife as long as you like.
So, of all the cities in Sicily, why should you come here? What's the attraction of Taormina?
The answer is, first of all, the scenery. And the beaches. And then some more. (I will show you in a minute.)
The town is in a very idyllic location. This has made it popular with tourists since the 1700s.
In the 1500s the Vatican began sponsoring the Grand Tour. Over the centuries this became a kind of rite of passage for European aristocrats.
It was a way to get acquainted with the culture, art and architecture of the past. Oscar Wilde, Richard Strauss, Richard Wagner and Goethe all took part in the Grand Tour in their day.
Taormina was one of the stops on the Grand Tour. And anyone who visits the place will understand why it was - and is - so popular.
The scenery is beautiful and history is still present. It's an environment where it's easy to enjoy life.
Taormina is best suited to those who enjoy a social atmosphere.
On the days you can go sightseeing or lounge on the beach. In the evening the whole village turns into one big cocktail party.
Or so I've heard. I visited the town in the off-season. It helped me see the one thing Taormina doesn't have: the local life.
In winter, the place is empty. Most of the restaurants are closed.
It was still quite nice to walk the streets. A few shops were open. The scenery and sights were as nice as ever.
Didn't bother going swimming though.
Taormina is a tourist village. This has its pros and cons.
On the good side, there are good services. Taormina is easy to come to. By train, bus or car.
If you come by train or bus, you will drop off at the bottom of the hill. From there you can take a local bus to the town itself. To the top of the hill.
For those arriving by car there are two large parking garages, one on each side of the village.
The town itself is beautiful, as are its attractions. It is easy to imagine Oscar Wilde, Andre Gidé and D. H. Lawrence walking around here.
Especially from July to August, the place is very crowded. From November to Easter the village is practically closed.
The best time to visit Taormina is in spring, from April to May. Or in autumn, September, or October. This is when you should be able to enjoy its charm with other people and still avoid the worst crowds.
It is possible to see the sights of Taormina in a couple of days. After that, you can move on or stay and enjoy the beach life.
Or consider Taormina as a base for day trips further afield.
There are day trips to Mount Etna, Catania, and the Aeolian Islands. All within a reasonably short distance.
Day trips to Syracuse, Ragusa, and Villa Romana are also possible. These are a little further away though.
Besides, I would spend more time in Syracuse than a day.
And if you want to see other baroque towns than just Ragusa, you should choose a base closer to them.
In Syracuse or Ragusa, for example. From there it is also easy to visit Noto and Modica.
The following is a list of Taormina's 5 main things to see and do.
This is the place where every visitor to Taormina sooner or later will end up. Probably sooner.
What makes the theatre special is its location. Built on the edge of a cliff, it offers a spectacular view of Mount Etna and the sea.
During the summer there are concerts, as well as the famous Taormina Film Festival in August.
Despite its name, the theatre is actually Greco-Roman. It was originally built by the Greeks, but almost all the parts that are visible today are Roman-made.
As well as repairing the crumbling grandstand, the Romans also enlarged the stage. This way it was better for the gladiator games.
They also built a wall between the grandstand and the stage. This way they protected spectators from the wild animals used in gladiator shows.
Below the theatre are the Public Gardens. Here you can admire exotic plants - or just enjoy the atmosphere.
Gardens were built by the English noblewoman Florence Trevelyan. She arrived in Taormina on the Grand Tour and never returned to her homeland.
She also built a villa for herself on Isola Bella.
Today, the Public Gardens serve as a common living room for the townspeople. It's a nice place to sit, enjoy the beauty of the place and meet people.
There's also a children's playground.
Castelmola is a nearby hill town. It is accessible from Taormina by bus or on foot.
Castelmola is worth a visit for the views alone. At the same time, you get to walk those medieval alleys that fill the town.
The best views are from the ruins of the Norman castle, located above the main square.
According to legend, Castelmola was promised the status of an independent city on one condition. Its population had to exceed 1,000 inhabitants.
To this end, the townspeople began a reproduction campaign.
The city's symbol, the phallus, now stands as a reminder of these efforts. You find these phalluses, especially in Bar Turris.
Even if you are not interested in the bar's fancy decor, you can still take a look at the view from the terrace.
You reach Castelmola by a winding road leading to its main square.
Those who enjoy hiking can climb to the town on foot. At least if you don't mind the steep slopes and the heat.
There are places to stay in the town with fine views. One night is enough. Once you've seen the views and walked the alleys, then there's not much else to do.
This is the best viewpoint of the surrounding scenery.
It is a carved stone church on the top of a hill, directly above the town of Taormina.
A local shepherd discovered the place when he fled into a cave during a storm. In the cave, the Virgin Mary appeared to him with the baby Jesus.
After that Francesco Raineri founded a church on this site. The year was 1640.
The path leading to the site starts from Taormina and climbs up to the stone church. Local buses also stop here, as do tourist buses.
I would recommend walking if possible. This way you can better enjoy the scenery.
Those who are afraid of heights should take the bus.
This is usually the main reason to come to Taormina.
Maybe I put it last only because I visited the place in winter.
The most accessible of the beaches is Lido Mazzio. You can get there by cable car from Taormina.
Mazzio has good facilities and is popular with tourists.
Isola Bella is within walking distance from Mazzio. This is where the English noblewoman Florence Trevelyan built her villa.
Now there is almost nothing left of the villa.
You can wade or swim to Isola Bella. There you can walk on its paths, and swim on its beach.
If you want fine sand the nearest beach is Spisone. It is a couple of kilometers north of Lido Mazzio.
If you like the sea, you can also book accommodation down below, near the beaches.
About 15 km north of Taormina are Mazzeo and Letojanni beaches. They should be good.
To the south is the town of Giardini Naxos. Besides being a popular beach resort, it's also the first place where the Greeks landed on the island in 734 BC.
Now only the ruins of that settlement remain.
Giardini Naxos also has an archaeological museum. Mostly it’s about the beaches, though.
Taormina is a very attractive destination. But it's not for those seeking peace and quiet or local culture. (At least in summer.)
It’s easy to see the sights in a couple of days. After that, you can concentrate on beach life or make excursions to the other parts of Sicily.
Taormina has good services and great views. It is also well connected to Catania airport.
It is not a cheap place.
If you crave more authentic Sicilian beach life, think about heading near Palermo. To places like Cefalù, Mondello or Scopello. For example. Or even better, down to the south coast of Sicily.
When I go to Taormina again, I'm sure to make it in some warmer month. This time I only saw the ghost of what this town is really about.
(Last edited: October 22, 2023.)
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